The group picture from the studio of Malick Sidibe

some additional links and files

Dear all,

Some additional information:

- Here is a link to the photo stream of BM Suma in Istanbul.

- Yaşar, whom me met at BM Suma, also e-mailed me the pdf files of the Diwan Project magazine: rub091109_Istanbul_Einzelseiten_1-28 

- Finally, a newsletter from Bamako with some news on the local art scene: Artisttik Africa numéro 13_StationGareMali

Take care,
Maaike

Going home

Saturday night we got up at two in the morning and were taken to the airport at 2h30. Everyone was tired, of course, and a bit bleary-eyed. We were happy and excited to get home, finally, but also a bit sad because being in this sort of waiting limbo creates a sort of state outside of the normal which allows you to forget about work and things you need to do when you get home. There is simply nothing else you can do but wait and make the best of it while you’re at it.

Almost in Paris

Our group got smaller and smaller and it was sad to have to say goodbye to one person after the other. The Dutch are still waiting in Paris for a flight to Amsterdam, the Norwegians will fly home around 7 PM and Ana from Sao Paolo is in for the longest wait, her flight leaves at 11 PM tonight. If all is well the others are almost home.

So, this is it for now. Thanks for following the blog and commenting on our posts with suggestions and ideas.

Maaike

waiting in Bamako

Our flight has been cancelled and we spent the day waiting in Bamako, catching up on sleep, paying some final visits to people or places we wanted to see (again), bought presents for those waiting at home for us.

Waiting for the ride to the airport at 3 in the morning

Still waiting

In all likelihood, we will leave tomorrow morning around 5 o’clock.

group pictures!

Standing before the bus, ready to go

Getting ready for our group portrait in the studio of Malick Sidibé

After the evaluation

After the evaluation we went to the studio of Malick Sidibé, the famous photographer. He wasn’t there unfortunately but his son took our group photo. The studio was really small and full of old camera’s. The studio set-up was tiny as well and it was amazing to realize that he took so many great pictures there. We barely fitted in the small space with the 17 of us but we managed and we will soon have an amazing group picture.

The studio of Malick Sidibé

At the studio of Malick Sidibé

At the studio of Malick Sidibé

Some of us tried out the studio of the famous master!

And this is the try-out of the group portrait!

After this we went straight to the home and studio of Abdoulaye Konaté, another famous artist. He showed us his amazing “tapestries”; large textile works on geopolitical conflicts and issues.

At the studio of Abdoulaye Konaté

At the studio of Abdoulaye Konaté

At the studio of Abdoulaye Konaté

We were all very impressed by his work and were happy and grateful that he took so much time to talk to us and explain his work.

- Maaike Lauwaert

Our last day in Bamako

We’re completing the complex business of checking 18 people out of the hotel and settling the bills. Those of us who are ready and packed meet in the lobby. In a short while we should start with the evaluation of the trip.

The evaluation has started!

It’s around 4:30 now, we’re back in the lobby of the hotel and just heard that our flight has a delay of 7 hours and that it might get worse. Haco rushed to the airport to find out what is going on and what we should do hotel-wise. More on that later I’m sure.

But let me get back to the evaluation. I want to start by saying that the whole group was really impressed with how well the trip was organised by Haco and Dilara. They did a great job in terms of making the program not too heavy, creating space for individual appointments with artists, making sure all went smoothly along the way and creating the perfect rhythm: Istanbul was fast-paced with a full schedule, Lagos was an intense two days and then finally Bamako was more relaxing. And of course, the rising temperature from one city to the next, sort of forced us to slow down. There is only so much one can do in 40+ degrees. The major achievement of course, is that you feel you have a sense of the art scene in these three very different cities. We all feel like we have an overview of the art scene, what goes on and what it means to be an artist in the three cities. Everyone thought the group was well-balanced and that the international guests and the people from Ghana made a huge difference in terms of perspective, depth of discussions and interesting exchanges. Also, the program was more interdisciplinary this year which was much appreciated. For many of the participants, traveling in a group is not something they do often or consider as the best way to see new places. However, traveling with international arts professionals turned out to be very rewarding because you can exchange expertise within the group. Besides praise, there were also a few suggestions for the next trip.

The main suggestions were:

- the participants felt that it would be good to have a few hours of plenary discussion on each city. General impressions, issues that came up during the visits, questions and remarks could then be dealt with in the group rather than individually or one on one.

- most people would have liked to know a bit more in-depth what everyone in the group was involved in. Of course, you talk a lot on the bus, waiting for the plane, during breakfast and dinner, but nevertheless it could be interesting to have a sort of pecha kucha style evening with short presentations that briefly outline the core of what everyone does, where they work, what their main interests and current projects are. It would be good to do this halfway through the trip when people know each other already a little bit.

- as is the case every year, this year as well there was the artists versus organisations -discussion. The focus of the visits is very much on organisations and art institutions. It is hardly possible to meet artists with such a large group. People agreed that you have to do your own research before you go on the trip and make individual appointments with the artists you would like to meet (and some in the group did that). Another idea could be to involve artists more closely in panel discussions, like the one we had with curators in Istanbul. Such a round tabel discussion could be held in every city; the discussion in Istanbul was very useful and insightful. Also, it was suggested that it could be good to have someone from the city you visit travel with the group in that city. That way you can ask questions as they come up and discuss issues more in-depth. The group from Ghana that joined us functioned much in that way and they introduced the perspective of a knowledgeable outsider.

Finally, I would like to stress again that it is very important that we all keep each other informed on projects that result from this trip. The follow-up is extremely important. As Rosina formulated it so beautifully, the real trip will begin once we get home.

- Maaike Lauwaert

third day in Bamako

You are dressed like him
You look like him
You speak his tongue
You think like him
You’re just as clumsy in your foreign ways.

Wole Soyinka

I have been thinking about a question all these days: are we oriented or disoriented?
The most interesting part of the Orientation Trip has been precisely its ability to relocate us in areas that exceed their own reality. Istanbul, Lagos and Bamako are those kinds of cities where it is easy to get lost. The proportions and human complexity permits this. A trip includes, always, the experience of being lost. The best way to find yourself is to confront and bring sense to strangeness. So, and again, after this Orientation Trip, do you think that we will be able to say something important because this disoriented situation?

I’m sure others in the group have a better head to sort the ideas and images that we have unveiled this final trip days. For me it is always impossible to condense so much information. I’m slow. I’m not so structured because my heritage of fragile systems or the lack of them. Also I have this personal mania that blocks me when I’m in front of intense, rich and varied surfaces. They come out like visions that are enough to saturate the mind with information and meaning waiting to be decoded. Mali is one of these visions. Here the interweaving of images is immense. During our visit to the National Museum of Mali I could recognize the importance of textiles in a particular political moment. Trough two exhibitions, one of contemporary design and a permanent show of textiles and historic ways of dying, also took me back to my country, Guatemala, where cotton and textiles as well are important cultural and symbolic products. The same use of indigo, the weaving and meanings that come out of textiles are determined by different environments but with the same needs to recognize an identity.



For Mali activist, Aminata Traore, cotton and textiles acquired a central place in the discussion of self-recognition of people when the country is going through many economic and social difficulties. Tracing the importance of these elements in Mali’s history is the possibility to bring back a relation with certain values, specifically the ones that can build ethics. Contemporary times speed and quantity of information and experience is overwhelming us because the levels of mobility are higher than before. So those like us that are “best situated” impose our vision of the correctness. But sharing mental spaces and looking for connectivity opens a wider possibility to understand the meanings and particular developments of contemporary cultures in the peripheries.

After the visit to the museum, designer Cheik Diallo took us to an unimaginable and unconventional place. Trough dusty and muddy streets, in the middle of popular neighbourhoods, we found ourselves in a countless number of situations, persons and workshops of tinsmiths and scrap recyclers. The sound of hammers hitting metal draws a landscape by itself, a “fuerza literaria” opens doors for the most bizarre stories. Also you can speculate about reactions of musicians as John Cage or Tijuana’s electronic music group Nortec in this hypersound experience, the opposite of any kind of Zen evocation or the dignifying of horror vacui. Only after the measures of my own paranoia and familiarity issues, I am able to look more deeply and recognize an alternative structure of economic issues. Chaos is appearance. Like “ready made ready” pushing to be interpreted, the stacking order of objects, the distribution of tasks, the respect of areas for recycling, of melting metals and the distribution of specific areas for waste conform a map of ways of understanding and developing work processes and, of course, one of the universes of men in Mali. Again, Aminata Traore appears in my head with her highlighted discussion about recycling objects from the first world, by and for the consumption of third worlds. Being lost, in the middle of this no place, has a potential proposal for a Fernando Meirelle’s movie, maybe a second Cidade de Deus.




Lost in the aim of translation, trying to understand an experience with epic dimensions… I only have the strength to recognize one of the most urgent discussions for contemporary societies, related to environment and how the use and abuse of its resources is determining more and new boundaries of hostility and discrimination. The new industries of recycling objects in Latin-America, India, Bamako, Lagos and other points of the planet becomes a metaphor that emerges between the negotiations of waste, the one that comes from capitalism and ends in the hands of depressed societies. Trough the eyes of the workers of Mali I can see the ones of Guatemala. In this point the trip does not bring out the sense of otherness but the one of sameness.

– Rosina Cazali

Searching for words to share our impressions, the schedule of the trip demanded us to continue. In the afternoon, the group was welcomed by the vice president of the Conservatoire des arts et métiers multimedia. Brief introductions from our part were followed by an introduction of the history of the conservatory and the architecture of the building.


The conservatory opened its doors in 2005 with three departments; fine arts, music and dance. Today it welcomes 217 students, divided over 6 departments, as in the past years the departments of theatre, multi media and management were added. Admission into the school is selective: Every year a contest is organized through which 10 students per department are chosen. The school benefits from state funding.

In a brief tour of the campus, we witnessed a rehearsal of the music department, in full preparation of a spectacle. We visited the mediatèque, numerous multimedia classrooms, music and recording studios and met a number of instructors from France and Spain, who in two-week workshops, deepen the skills of the students in the different departments.


Before leaving, director of the conservatory and artist Abdoulaye Konate showed us one of his works as a teaser to the studio visit of tomorrow.


After a brief intermezzo, we were invited into the home of the cultural and political attaché from the Netherlands: Astrid de Vries, where we contemplated our Mali-encounters with a number of familiar and new  faces.  Conversations continued later on in a little restaurant called Savana, where a singer brought out the classic song about comandante Che Guevera. As divine presences, the iconic Che Guevara from Korda, a recycled Bob Marley and Obama are stuck in the altar of irony and modernity.

– Karen Verschooren and Rosina Cazali

Images of the third day in Bamako

Meeting with Samuel Sidibe of the National Museum of Mali

So Masiri exhibition at the National Museum of Mali

Meeting with the Minister of Culture

At the Conservatoire des arts et métiers multimédia

Abdoulaye Konaté, director of the conservatoire, showing one of his works

Reception with the local art scene at the home of Astrid de Vries from the Dutch Embassy

L’agencement artistique et l’articulation de la responsabilité sociale

La journée de 9 mars a commencé par l’envoi d’une photo d’Aminata Dramane Traoré sur le réseau social Facebook. Je l’ai envoyée avec un commentaire en arménien dans lequelle je la qualifiais de Reine de l’Afrique. Par cet envoi sur le réseau je voudrais plutôt contribuer aux discours artistiques et intellectuels. Initiés depuis une quinzaine d’années, ces discours sont toujours vibrants, touchant des questions identitaires liées au genre, au corps et aux enjeux féminins qui se renforcent surtout à l’occasion du 8 mars, la journée des femmes. Là-bas aussi, dans les milieux intellectuels d’Arménie on voit le même enthousiasme élitiste et la même sincérité pénétrante de la parole révélée hier dans l’intervention de Mme Traoré.

On l’a rencontrée la veille et cette rencontre a produit une impression profonde sur les participants d’Orientation Trip. Son intervention  présentait une réflexion critique dont l’exactitude et la clarté de position  étaient remarquables. Le point principal de sa prise de parole portait sur la politique mondialisante de l’économie néolibérale qui ne faisait que construire des ponts sur le fleuve Niger, sans aucun investissement dans le secteur industriel ni responsabilité sociale, poussant ainsi à l’appauvrissement des pauvres et à l’enrichissement des riches, et produisant une inégalité croissante. Un autre point fut la critique des Fondations internationales dont l’inertie simule les enjeux féministes des décennies passées (les discours sur l’égalité politique des femmes dans une société où leurs pères, leurs époux, leurs frères mêmes souffraient du manque de travail et de l’impossibilité de gagner leur vie).

Le propos  de l’ancienne ministre de la Culture du Mali  m’a touché aussi par sa capacité à relier les territoires du discours, celui des réflexions critiques à celui des pratiques. Ces activités politiques, économiques, culturelles et artistiques sont entreprises pour répondre à plusieurs questions: Comment diminuer les valeurs consuméristes qui aliènent l’individu à son environnement local ? Comment le responsabiliser en lui donnant le goût de participer au changement social ?

La journée qui commençait aurait dû illustrer plutôt la possibilité d’une telle rencontre  initiée par l’activité artistique de la créatrice malienne Awa Meité (la fille d’Aminata). Elle aurait dû ressembler à une promenade hors de Bamako, dans la région appelée Koulikoro dans le petit village de Chô dont la prononciation correcte m’est inconnue (Hormis ce voyage, Dilara et Hacco n’ont rien programmé ce jour là). Au petit matin j’ai aperçu, de la fenêtre de ma chambre, Krishna nageant dans la piscine du Grand Hôtel (je lui ai promis de le rejoindre, mais ce ne fut pas le cas, trop pris par mes réflexions).

Donc tout va bien. On est prêt à y aller.  

Mais cela nous a pris un certain temps avant que le chauffeur de bus trouve le bon chemin pour sortir de Bamako. Et cela fut suffisant pour que les participants puissent être engourdis sous les rayons de soleil et de chaleur. Bas, comme toujours vigilent pour n’importe quel mouvement, n’a pas raté sa chance de documenter quelques-unes des participantes (Jantine, Ana) déjà bien assoupies.  

Quelques dizaines de kilomètres, le long du chemin bordant le Niger, suffisent pour qu’on puisse embrasser toute l’étendue de l’échelle physique ce pays. L’aridité de son sol ocre rouge aurait été étouffante sans les bords basaltiques du Niger dont les inondations annuelles auraient dû laver cette mince couverture de terre brulée. Mais elle incarnait aussi les côtés visibles et invisibles de la vie sociale et culturelle malienne, la pauvreté accablante et la misère désespérante auxquelles les maliens opposaient leur courage, leur inventivité et la force de leur imaginaire.  

C’est ainsi qu’on arrive à Chô.

L’investissement d’Awa dans ce village consiste en une manufacture organisée sur un morceau de terre délimité par une barrière de paille. Un pavillon est construit au centre de cet enclos, abritant sous son ombre quelques dizaines de femmes. Quelques une sont en train de filer, les autres tissent. On voit parfois des enfants sur les dos des jeunes femmes.

On est donc tout au début du chemin. Comme nous l’a expliqué l’un des rares hommes dans cet endroit de travail : il n’existe que la phase de filage et de tissage réunis sous le toit de paille de cette cabane. La teinture, la couture et la broderie vont suivre, mais ceci déjà fut suffisant pour la mise en œuvre d’un festival nommé « Rencontre »autour du coton. Il a eu lieu deux jours avant de notre visite.  

Le coton est donc une part importante de la fierté de l’agriculture malienne. Il est aussi par excellence une matière première qui structure les arts appliqués de ce pays. Plusieurs artistes l’investissent en réarticulant, dans différents accessoires de meubles (rideaux, nappes, tapis, couvertures), sa qualité naturelle d’absorbtion de la lumière et de révélation de zones de tranquillité esthétique dans les intérieurs d’un habitat contemporain. Et on voit une habilité dont les techniques anciennes se réactualisent pour créer des formes pures de design contemporain.

 Dans sa création personnelle, Awa a voulu dépasser ces limites pour créer toute une chaîne de travail avec le coton. En ce sens, son geste s’accompli sur différents axes et modalités. En tant qu’artiste elle contribue à la maintenance et transmission des savoir-faires traditionnels dans l’élaboration du coton (filage, tissage, teinture). Mais créant des possibilités de travail pour quelques dizaines de femmes du village, elle dépasse le but de la pratique artistique ciblée sur la production d’un objet. La pratique, dans son déroulement même, crée un tissu de discours critiques (féministes, alter mondialistes) dans lesquels sont  bien lisibles les figures de l’activité sociale, de l’économie alternative et du plaisir esthétique de vivre.

Comment se conjugue l’art contemporain en Afrique ? Est-il possible de le définir ? Cette question dominante semble moins problématique quand elle s’encadre dans une question plus générale :   Qu’est-ce que l’art contemporain ?. Quelque part  en Europe,  plusieurs initiatives ont cherché à produire un art qui n’a ni objet, ni auteur, ni spectateur non plus.

 Une des femmes proposa de s’essayer au travail de fileuse. Il était curieux de regarder comment une européenne (Dilara) pouvait se débrouiller et se réaffirmer dans cet effort élémentaire, créant une longueur de fil à partir d’une boule de coton.

Nazareth Karoyan